The GPO, Liverpool: ‘They’re trying to work all the angles’ – restaurant review

J

Jay Rayner

Guest
Is it a post office, is it a shopping mall? Liverpool’s GPO may be first-class once it sorts itself out
The GPO, Metquarter, 35 Whitechapel, Liverpool L1 6DA. Book online at the-gpo.co.uk. All dishes across the menus £4-£16. Wines from £18

The app wants to be reassuring. Yes, of course I can have half a fried chicken with hot sauce on a thick slice of bread with pickles. As long as I am in Sheffield. I’m not in Sheffield. I’m in Liverpool, in a booth within the polished redevelopment of what was once the city’s General Post Office building. It is baffling. The app is meant to be the best way to unlock the offering at this food hall with its many outlets and gracious table service. Now it has taken me all the way through the process before telling me I am 78 miles away from my order. This is a profound tragedy, albeit only within the narrow parameters set by a restaurant critic’s nightmarish entitlement.

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