Welcome to the cider revolution | Fiona Beckett on drink


Fiona Beckett

A new and inspiring generation is taking cider making as seriously as that of wine, with appealing results

The shock result, not least to us judges, of the recent first IWSC 100% fermented fruit cider tasting was that it was a Swedish producer, Brännland, that swept the board, winning the ice cider trophy (for its 2013 Brännland Iscider Barrique) and half of the eight gold medals on offer. I don’t mean that in any jingoistic way, but simply to say that it was surprising, given that here in the UK we have some stunning ciders of our own.

It turns out that a lot of the smaller British producers I admire so much hadn’t even entered, mainly because they simply don’t have the funds to enter competitions, but also because they don’t hold enough stock to deal with the rush in demand that winning a medal engenders. Their mainstay, and what makes their ciders so fascinating, is small batches made from old varieties that often fruit inconsistently. Many come from undiscovered orchards such as those produced by the Devon cidery Find & Foster.

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